Skiathos end

The end.


Time for bed

Skiathos again

Family of four


Only an hour from Skopelos to Skiathos


Maria's Pizza Skiathos

Ferry Time

Nothing beats travelling by ferry - on time, calm seas ...


Police pretending to issue a ticket - blew their whistle and then the owner came running!


Skoplos is a fairly small island with only about 5000 people living here all year round. The tourist season only really started about a week ago with bars around the harbour getting a coat of paint and opening up. The tourist season really hots up in July and August when all the Greeks come over for their holidays and then everything closes up again in Early October. For the rest of the year people just farm and fish. It gets very quiet and cold. Many of the people working in the hotel are from the mainland who just come over for the season, for the rest of the year they try to get other work. Quiet and Idyllic.


Leaving Skopelos Village


Honda PCX scooter - the best

Greece observations

An isolated St Barbara's church. Dating back to 1600, the icons inside were stolen in 1993 by the Italian mafia.


traffic jam on the F3 - goats on the way to the beach.


Traffic jam on the M4 - outside our hotel



Kittens in a butcher shop

if you come to Greece ...

When you go to the toilet the toilet paper you use does not get put into the toilet but into a foot operated bin nearby. In some restaurants the toilets were out of action as some 'stupido' tourist put the paper down.

At the restaurant expect to stay for a while, service is excellent but they never hurry you along, especially at the end. You can just sit and sit. Ask for the bill and instead ...

... they bring something extra at the end, a carafe of wine, a tumbler of ouzo each, more dessert, sweet liquor... all for free.


A few pebbles on the beach, ouch.

Forget about ordering a cappuccino or a Flat White, Frappe is THE coffee drink of choice. It is an iced nescafe coffee. It comes with a straw and the locals take about an hour to drink it. when you drink , squeeze the straw.

Smoking is banned but hell this is Greece and there are plenty of smokers - everywhere. In offices, in kitchens, on buses, on motorcycles. Ashtrays everywhere, but none on motorcycles.

Motorcycle helmets are compulsory but hell this is Greece so no one wears them ... except for tourists. When I hired my scooter the owner said that tourists are the only people who will be fined for not wearing them.

Motorcycles can carry as many people as will fit, so far the most I have seen is four – father 2 kids in the middle and mum at the back. Kids stand on the handlebars as grandpa picks them up from school, to take them home for lunch.

Park anywhere you like – even in the middle of the road where there is not enough space for anyone to pass. The parking police don't issue tickets but blow a whistle, which tells you to get out of the shop and move it.

Backgammon is all the go. Coffee shops have a few sets on hand.


Glisteri Beach, Sunday morning slow

Skopelos scooter

Rookie error ; taking a drink with the visor down


Mamma Mia Chapel

Hired a scooter today and rode around to some secluded beaches on the island. We walked up to Agios Ionnanis (Saint John's) church which is remote and spectacular. it is one of the locations from the movie and is known as the Mamma Mia chapel. It is on a big lump of rock which looks like it is about to topple over. The walk up and down is pretty hair-raising as is the ride down the mountain to get there. There was no-one else there. You can wander in the church as the key is in the lock, it is a functioning Orthodox church with all the trimming.


Agnontas

On the way home dropped into a cafe to admire the view over a town called Glossa. Heard an Aussie accent out on the balcony and joined a couple from Bathurst for a chat. He was having beer(s) but as I was scootering home just had a coffee. Swapping some travel stories and before we knew it the sun was setting, oh no. Had about a hour ride home and did not want to do it in the dark (across a mountain and along the coast). We made it in just on dark. Phew.

View from chapel

Skopelos Island Activities

Skopelos sunset

After lounging about the resort we decide to follow a track which had a sign leading to a monastery. The track was level at the start and skirted a headland, it got steeper and steeper and after about 45 minutes we were high above the town at the gates of an old walled monastery. The sign said to ring the bell once and wait. We rang and waited ... and waited.

Michelle being the brave one went inside and crept around, she would make an excellent burglar, I followed after a while. This place was like a mini-castle with an ancient church inside, we had a look and there was lots of gold. Michelle went further into the monks area when an old woman in black appeared on a balcony and shouted for us to get the hell out of there. We scurried all the way down the mountain.

View from monastery

Out for dinner last night at Taverna Engveloz that is a favorite down along the water. The owner Spiros is a natural, he welcomes you warmly and immediately brings fresh bread and olive oil for dipping. His son, daughter and wife all help out. The food is good and it costs about 25 euro for a 3 course meal with wine. We had a bottle of retsina, the local paint stripper, and had stayed for about 2 ½ hours, and had enjoyed our meal. The place was full, a table of old fishermen with a huge bowl of soup each, a long table of a group out to celebrate something, and assorted tourists. Spiros was loving it. When Michelle asked for the bill he brought out another bottle of Retsina. We stayed and listened to the bouzuki players next door. When we polished that bottle off, with difficulty, Michelle again asked for the bill, he went away and brought back another free bottle of Retsina, he said 'why do you want to leave, good food, wine, listen to the music, relax, you are on holiday.' Next time I went to the kitchen and gave him how much I thought we owed, plus. He laughed. No one else was leaving, it was full. Luckily we we not driving, we slowly weaved out way home keeping away from the harbour's edge.


Balcony view


Skopelos with the next island in the distance

Skopelos Paradise Found

Escape route



Leaving Skiathos Town

Sailing along a deserted coastline until we rounded a headland into a harbor surrounded by hills covered in white houses with red-tiled roofs.
The town seemed quiet even at midday, we knew our accommodation was along the seafront to the left so we wheeled our bags in that direction. I asked for directions and was told to look out for a blue sign. Arriving in front of a run-down motel style place with a big blue front sign missing two letters, I went in asking with a heavy heart it we were at the right place. Gladly the answer was no and was told to try next door.

Now this was more like it, the hotel looked swish and smart, and the receptionist greeted us with the phrase every traveler hopes for, “you've been upgraded”. Michelle quickly pulled a toy koala our of her handbag and gave it to her, which she asked what should she call it. I told her that every Koala was called Blinky.

She showed us to our one-bedroom suite which resembled a country farmhouse. It's shutters at the front opened to a sweeping view of the sea and a glimpse of town, the rear bedroom shutters opened to reveal an olive grove and a mountain. There were no other people around, it seemed secluded. Our front balcony had a table and two chairs, basked in afternoon sunshine and was quiet except for an occasional car or ship and the sound of the sea. The 3 rooms are huge with tall ceilings and a earth-red tiled floor. Booked for 2 nights, we do not want to leave. Canceling the next island and any further travel we are stopping here for 10 nights.


Crusing along Skopelos coast


Arrival Skiathos town

Skiathos Island shock

Skiathos Town


walking the plank


We had just left Lemnos which is a small sleepy island compared to Skiathos. In lemnos we had to battle to speak some Greek and arrived in Skathos which seemed to be overun with sunburnt British package tourists. Instead of menus in Greek there were signs adverising bacon, eggs and sausages with the Premier League soccer times.

The main town is run for tourism with cafe touts inviting you in as you walk past, boat cruise touts telling you about their best cruise. We decided get out hire a scooter and head to the best beaches in Greece, according to one guide book.

Koukounaries is about 15 km south and is a beautiful calm sandy beach. It is also full of British tourists working on their tan. The woman in front of me needed to see a skin specialist for a suspicious looking mole on her shoulder. The beach has stands of umbrellas and deckchairs and a wooden walkway. To hire a spot under an umbrella cost 8 euros. It was hot about 26 degrees and the water was coolish. It is the start of summer and takes a while to warm up. It was crystal clear and so still. We found a spot under the one shady tree and went for a swim. When we returned a large pair of smoking English had parked next to our gear. We bought an ice cream and scoootered off.

Koukounaries beach


Beach time


8 euros


Rather than linger on Skiathos we decided to head for Skopelos, 45 minutes away by ferry, it has no airport bringing in package tourists and supposed to be a bit quieter. We have booked accommodation for only two nights in case it is a dump. Bought two ferry tickets for 10 euro and we leave on the 11.40am ferry. We will be there in an hour!

Skiathos harbour


K beach


Michelle planking

More Rookie errors

the list gets bigger ...

Stopping by the side of the road to admire the view in Lesvos where the whole island seems to be planted with olive trees. Right in front of us was a tree with a few olives at the top of its branches. They must have missed these in the olive picking season. Standing on a stone wall i managed to pick a bag full. Great for our salad I thought. After taking them home and washing them. We bit into them and they are SOUR. Apparently it takes a few months to prepare them to eat.

In each hotel we stayed they is a cord in the shower, Michelle decided to try it thinking she might be able to hang her clothes on it The receptionist rang immediately to see what the emergency was. It is a emergency cord.

Backgammon is very popular, you see many people playing in the coffee shop, so Michelle went to the counter and asked for a backgammon set. They pointed her to the toilets. Michelle tried to explain with mime what she wanted. They had no idea but were very entertained. later a waitress was curious as to what she wanted. She spoke some English and explained that it is called Tarvli in Greece.


Big Rookie error for someone else: As we arrived at our new hotel in Skopelos there was a crane lifting a buggy out of the harbour. Someone where we were staying drove over the edge of the seafront into the sea. Luckily the drop was only about 2m below. A big rookie error, end of holiday and fast boat back to the mainland hospital.
One waterlogged buggy!

Leaving Lemnos

Chicken wrapped in bacon from the grill


Views from Castle in Lemnos

Leaving Lemnos

Sad to leave this island.
Lemnos is a perfect holiday island, the main town Myrina where the ferry pulls in sits below a ruined castle.

Myrina is just about the right size, about 6000 residents, and has a very relaxed feel. Most stores close at 2pm for siesta and the whole place is like a ghost town, you feel like aliens have abducted everyone from the streets. It kinda feels wrong to be out walking. Mostly I decide to go home and have a sleep.

There is a strong Aussie connection with this island. Already we have met many Australian/Lemnians including the owner of a great restaurant opened only 3 days ago. We sat down at this restaurant which was full of locals, we tried to order but the waiter gave up on our pathetic efforts and got the owner. It was hard to pick but she had a faint Aussie accent. The young female owner grew up in Adelaide and returned to Lemnos when she was 11 years old. If you ever visit make sure you have lunch in Benetias, it is by the harbor, the menus are all in Greek and the waiters only speak Greek, but the seafood is fresh caught and cooked beautifully.

We met one Australian/ Lemnian couple who spends 4 summer months a year in Lemnos. the husband left Lemnos in the early 1950's. He told us his story. One of seven children on the farm in Lemnos there were too many mouths to feed so his father sold the six best sheep to pay for his fare to Australia. As a 16-year-old he ended up in a small country town of Eugowra helping a relative in a cafe. He made his life in Australia raising a family and now returns every year with his wife to his old home village.

The owner of where we were staying organised a taxi to take us to the airport at 5.30am. He stopped on the way to get a coffee, shouted us one for free saying that the shop at the airport wouldn't be open. I love these island airports, about 10 people getting on a plane, no queues, no hassles.



A healthy cheese and ham toastie with a frappe, Cafe by the beach at Myrina

Lemnos ANZAC sites

Gallipoli is about 120km away from Lemnos and in 1915 the island was the main base for ANZAC forces as they prepared for the invasion on 25 April. During the 9 months of the campaign it was used as a hospital base. Today there are reminders of this in two Commonwealth war cemeteries. One at Moudros and the other at Portianos. The latter was a bit difficult to find, down a dirt laneway in the middle of a farm. As usual they are beautifully tended and both are surrounded by a high stone wall. Besides Australian and New Zealanders there are British, French, Indians and Canadians. Down by Moudros port there is a special Australian - Lemnos memorial which explains the Gallipoli campaign.
It is possible that my grandfather, Stephen Dawson, 4th Light Horse Brigade, may have travelled to Lemnos as part of the preparation. Luckily he is not lying here.








Portianos Commonwealth Cemetery

Lemnos arrival

It is a mistake to only rely on an internet hotel booking, especially when arriving on an unknown island, especially so when arriving after 1am. We were not too worried, I mean these Greek ferries arrive at all hours so the hotel owners must be used to it, right?

Sailing from Mytilene, Lesvos at dusk ,after a smooth six hours onboard the Nel ship, Taxiarches, we docked in Myrina, Lemnos. According to the Lonely Planet Guide's map we should be getting off right in the middle of town and have a short walk to our hotel. As the ship reversed in it was obvious that we were docking at a different end with a long walk around the harbour.

As we dragged our bags off the back ramp of the ferry we decided to look for a taxi. A minivan with a 'city centre' sign was loading people so we threw our bags in. The driver asked for our destination, shrugged at our response and drove off. I wished I had learnt a few more Greek phrases. After winding through backstreets he pulled up in an empty square and pointed down a dark alley. I had no idea where I was. A young girl also getting off the bus offered to help us, even though it was out of her way and she also had not heard of our hotel. As we rolled and bumped our bags down a cobbled lane a woman taking her dog for a walk discussed with the young girl our destination and pointed to a darkened building. As we parted company with the young girl we thanked her profusely, pressing a fluffy koala souvenir into her uncomprehending hand.

The building did resemble the photos from the internet booking so I knocked on the door of the empty reception area. No answer after repeated knocking on the locked door. I wrote down the hotel phone number and went in fruitless search for a pay phone.
Instead I wandered into the only open shop in the square, Cyber Rat, where the owner and his friend, who spoke some Anglika, were drinking scotch and closing up. They phoned the number I gave them and said there was no answer. They tried again. I thanked them anyway and left.

On the way back I noticed an upstairs bedroom light left on, it could be accessed by an outside stairway. Great, we wouldn't be cooling our heels till daybreak in the plastic chairs in the garden, the owners had left our room open. I crept up the stairs, stepping on and scaring the mandatory Greek cat, and peered into the window. There was a lump in the bed. I retreated downstairs and encouraged Michelle to try an upstairs door on the presumption that they might be less likely to arrest a woman for trespass. I followed creepily behind her as she opened a door leading down a hall with bedroom doors either side. Breaking and entering a strange house at 2am was not our cup of tea so we strategically withdrew, resigning ourselves to a cold uncomfortable wait.

I hear the buzz of a scooter pull up and saw that it was one of the Cyber Rats. He explained that the owners had called back and had left a key in a downstairs room that could be entered by an unlocked side door. I clapped him on the shoulder and could have kissed him, well maybe not. we slept the sleep of the just until we were awoken by the strange sound of my bedside phone. It was 10.30am and someone was saying something about 'Shaun', oh, reception. I hurriedly dressed and booked in. Minutes later I found myself clinging to the owner as we sped through town on his scooter on the way to his 'friend' who would give me a good deal on my scooter.

I must say the Lemnos locals are real friendly folks.


Katsuraki Sofia Apartment



Inside Katsuraki Apartment

Lemnos

Myrina Harbour, Lemnos near where we are staying


The main street at 2.30pm. It is siesta time till 5pm.